Uncovering Mitla’s Mysterious Underworld: Ancient Tunnels Beneath the Church

In the highland town of San Pablo Villa de Mitla, one of the most astonishing archaeological confirmations in recent history has brought new meaning to the phrase “living heritage.” Beneath the red-domed Church of San Pablo—built directly atop a pre-Hispanic temple—scientists have uncovered a vast subterranean complex of chambers and passageways, long whispered about in legend. This is Lyobaa: the ancient Zapotec underworld.

According to Zapotec cosmology, Lyobaa (literally “Place of Rest”) was the entrance to the afterlife, and Mitla was its earthly threshold. Until now, colonial accounts and oral traditions were the only evidence of its existence. That changed in 2023 when the Proyecto Lyobaa team—comprised of Mexican scientists from UNAM, INAH, and the National Laboratory for Advanced Applied Geophysics—used non-invasive technologies to peer beneath the church. Their findings confirmed what the Zapotec people have said for centuries.

Ground-penetrating radar and electrical resistivity tomography revealed four large chambers and multiple tunnel-like connectors underneath the altar. The results, published in late 2023 and echoed across national media in 2024, have turned Mitla into the focal point of a cultural and spiritual reckoning. What was once dismissed as legend is now stone-and-earth reality.

From Sealed Secrets to Shared Heritage

Historical accounts by 16th-century Dominican friars spoke of a temple so sacred, the Spanish were compelled to destroy and seal it—building a Christian church directly over the ceremonial zone to assert colonial dominance. Those reports mention elaborate tombs and a “doorway to hell” beneath Mitla. Now, scientific validation of the tunnels lends credence to these accounts, affirming the site’s deep spiritual role in Zapotec life and death.

The discovery also reaffirms the importance of indigenous oral tradition. For generations, Zapotec elders told of sacred chambers hidden under the town’s church. Many locals grew up hearing that the “leyenda del inframundo” was more than a ghost story—it was history waiting to be proven. Now that it has, there’s a renewed sense of pride, and responsibility, to protect and honor it.

Can You Visit the Tunnels?

Not yet. As of mid-2025, the tunnels remain inaccessible to the public. INAH is still assessing how to safely excavate or showcase them without damaging the fragile structure above. However, the implications for cultural tourism are huge. Discussions are underway to create a multi-sensory visitor experience that may include augmented reality walkthroughs, 3D reconstructions, and expanded museum exhibits.

Even without physical access, the news has already made an impact. Since the announcement, tourism to Mitla has risen steadily, with local officials estimating a 17% increase in visitation during the 2024–2025 season. Artisans, mezcal producers, and Zapotec guides are benefitting directly, and many have begun incorporating the Lyobaa story into their offerings—from textiles embroidered with spiral motifs to storytelling tours in Zapotec and Spanish.

Visiting Mitla Today

• Hours: The Mitla archaeological zone is open daily from 10am to 4pm. Entry is approximately 90 pesos for foreigners, with free admission on Sundays for Mexican citizens.
• Don’t Miss: The Columns Group, where elaborately carved stone pillars support partially preserved temples. These are directly above the newly confirmed underground chambers.
• Local Culture: Visit the central market for woven goods dyed with cochineal and indigo. Nearby, you’ll find traditional Zapotec embroidery and woodworking workshops.
• Nearby Attractions: Pair your visit with excursions to Hierve el Agua or the mezcal route in Santiago Matatlán.
• Pro Tip: Hire a community-approved Zapotec guide. Their knowledge includes spiritual and oral traditions that go far beyond academic explanation.

The Future of Lyobaa

For locals, Lyobaa isn’t just a tourist attraction—it’s a sacred space. The town of Mitla has requested that any development include spiritual consultation with indigenous elders. Several town assemblies have already voted to limit mass commercialization of the site in favor of educational, respectful engagement. That process may serve as a model for future collaborations between archaeologists and native communities across Mexico.

One local teacher put it best: “It’s not about digging up treasure. The treasure is the story, the belief, the connection. We’ve always known it was there. Now the rest of the world does too.”

Mitla has always been a bridge between worlds—between the living and the dead, the seen and the unseen, the past and the present. With the rediscovery of Lyobaa, that bridge feels more alive than ever. Whether you walk among the stones above or stand in the shadow of the church that conceals so much below, you are now part of the next chapter in Mitla’s story.